Fast fashion is a term that has been shaping the fashion world for years. And let's be honest: Most of us have been mercilessly exposed to 'fast, cheap fashion' in the form of Zara, Primark and the like. Canadian consumers buy an average of 60 new items of clothing per year, which is more than one new item of clothing per week! According to Greenpeace, however, we only wear them for half as long as we did 15 years ago. And to top it off, there are now so-called ultra fast fashion brands like Asos and Misguided. They even offer items of clothing that only exist on paper or as a pure design. As soon as there is an actual need, they can be produced in no time at all.
At this point, we asked ourselves to what extent the fashion industry still looks the same now - post-lockdown. Does fast and ultra-fast fashion continue to dominate the clothing industry, or has the pandemic changed the trend to a large extent and in the long term? After all, a fundamental change is long overdue.
The collections that are replaced at lightning speed with their irresistible marketing and low prices definitely have their appeal. But we also pay a high price for enjoying fast fashion, even if this price may not be so obvious at first glance.
Before we look at future trends and give you tips on how to dress more fairly (guaranteed not at the expense of your love of fashion!), here is a brief overview of the (main) problems posed by the fast fashion industry.
The dark side of fast fashion
Exploitation of workers in production countries
It is not new that many fast-fashion chains have their clothes manufactured in factories abroad, mostly in Asia (#MadeInBangladesh) - under appalling working conditions, with hardly any safety precautions and for abysmal pay. But you don't have to go all the way to Asia: Cheap fashion is sometimes also manufactured in (ex-)Europe under the worst conditions, as recent reports - such as this one - about the fashion factories in the British city of Leicester show.
Poison for the environment
According to the United Nations Environmental Programme, the fashion industry is responsible for 10 percent of all carbon emissions caused by humanity. This makes it the fifth largest contributor to CO2 emissions overall (OMG!). In addition, polyester, a plastic that Greenpeace says is found in 60 percent of clothing, ends up in the wastewater in the form of microplastics when washed , i.e. in the environment - where it is absorbed by animals and humans.
The water consumption and pollution associated with the production of excessive clothing only make the situation worse. It takes more than 2,000 litres of water to produce a single cotton T-shirt. For comparison, that's more than two people use in a whole week. The coloured water is then often disposed of in ditches, bodies of water or rivers.
Fallacy of clothing donation
Did you also search through your closet several times during the Corona peak for pieces that you can give away or donate (#minimalism) ? Very likely, even if you consider the amount of clothing that has been donated in the last 1.5 years.
What has Corona done to the fashion industry and is a (positive) future trend emerging?
As we have all noticed, Corona has hit the fashion industry with full force. The alternating lockdowns, fear of infection and masses of canceled events have not exactly encouraged clothes shopping. Only sweatpants have rocked the pandemic and experienced a resurgence - as well as the odd presentable top to shine (at least visually) on video calls. Perhaps one could also mention the trusty Jack Wolfskin multifunctional jacket by name at this point, because thanks to the pandemic, going for a walk in wind and weather had suddenly become the equivalent of "let's meet for a drink."
Some labels, especially those that rely primarily on store fronts, have been left with mountains of clothes and in some cases have even had to file for bankruptcy , such as Esprit and Galeria Kaufhof.
The online fashion retailer Zalando, for example, has recently started offering a clothing repair service. In this context, Zalando acts as an intermediary between Berlin-based tailors and the consumer to encourage people to repair clothes instead of buying new ones. However, Viola W. from Greenpeace suggested to the editorial network Canada that Zalando is anything but sustainable and that it is probably just greenwashing.
The remaining brands are just recovering from the downturn and one can only guess where the textile industry will head. Like it has been for years, it will probably move even more towards online shopping à la Asos, Shein and Co.
But leaving aside the sales medium - the pandemic and the associated need to pause has given us all a chance to question production conditions and materials in the fashion industry again. Some brands are tackling the issue conscientiously, already using organic cotton instead of polyester and dyeing in an environmentally friendly way . Others, on the other hand, try to give end consumers the feeling that they are buying fair clothing, but in reality it does not deliver what it promises (or only to a very small extent). They are adopting the principle of greenwashing , in which companies use sustainability as a customer magnet and pure sales strategy.
Leaving aside the major trends in the industry, what can you do to avoid getting swept up in the wave of the fast fashion industry? Check out our tips here.
Tips to dress more fairly (#VivaLaSlowFashion)
1. Discover the (fabulous) world of second-hand fashion
You probably think of second-hand shops when you hear the term 'sustainability'. According to Mia Marjanović , an ethical fashion blogger and YouTuber from Berlin who currently lives in England, second-hand shopping is still the most sustainable form of consumption.
"By buying second-hand clothes, you avoid consuming new goods and help to reduce the huge mountain of textile waste. In addition, vintage fashion is usually cheap, unique and actually really easy to find," says Mia in an interview with HalloHappee.
Basically, the internet has only made second-hand shopping easier (or, in Corona times, made it possible in the first place) and given us access to some of the best selection, for example through the platforms like Vinted and Momox Fashion. And online retailers such as Otto's About You have now also entered the second-hand business.
2. Rent your wardrobe
Renting clothes means you can wear that fabulous outfit that makes you feel as confident as Taylor Swift for a fraction of the original price. And then someone else gets to live the glamour because the clothes can be returned and rented again.
3. Organize a clothing swap
According to a survey by the Nuggets Market Research & Consulting GmbH institute , which was carried out on behalf of Greenpeace, we hardly ever wear 20 percent of our clothes, or one in five items in our wardrobe. So why not put out the clothes that haven't left your closet for far too long (and are still in good condition) for a clothing swap, so that others can also benefit from them? You might even find a really cool item that will perfect your outfit.
This is how an easy clothes swap works:
- Invite your friends with the best fashion sense.
- Only offer clothes, shoes and accessories that are in good condition.
- On the day of the event, get everyone to lay out their clothes so that all participants can see the entire selection. And go!
4. Choose durable, good quality clothes that you will wear often
Let's be honest: Sure, it hurts a little to pay 60 euros for a new wool sweater instead of 20. But chances are good that you'll get more out of the more expensive item. But hey, how can you tell if it's good quality? In addition to the price, the material also plays a role (e.g. cotton or linen, instead of polyester and acrylic). Do you want to be sure that your dream dress is really made of organic cotton and was also produced under fair working conditions? Then check that it has the right organic seals, such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the IVN Best seal. In addition, if you already own an item from the same brand, you can assume that the new piece has a similar expiration date.
5. Upcycling, baby
What was upcycling again? The whole thing works according to the principle of 'making new from old' and uses existing but already discarded items of clothing that are dismantled into their individual parts and then put back together to make something new - such as a bag, pillowcases or curtains. You can either try upcycling yourself and create new items from your discarded pieces. Or, if you don't feel like being creative, there is always the option of checking out some cool upcycling labels, such as the Hamburg-based brand Bridge and Tunnel . They make chic new products from discarded jeans.
A few final words
We all know that it is difficult to resist the fast fashion craze with its unbeatable prices and attractive marketing. It requires awareness, creativity and initiative. That is why no one expects you to suddenly change your purchasing habits by 180 degrees in one fell swoop. But every contribution and step towards fair fashion, no matter how small, is valuable and helps our planet.